Caffè Napoletano

I have a big collection of ‘Caffettiere Napoletane’ (also known as Cuccuma or Cuccumella). Some new, some old, some battered, some well beyond their brewing days but I can’t bear to bin them! These Caffettiere Napoletane are the only ones I use because, in my opinion, it is the only way to make a proper coffee. Unlike the Moka express (used by the majority of people nowadays in Naples), this way of making coffee relies on gravity rather than the pressure of the steam to filter the coffee, resulting in a more rounded, rich aroma.

Coffee was first introduced in Naples in 1796 by Maria Carolina D’Asburgo (married to Federico Di Borbone) and immediately it became an integral part of the Neapolitan culture and tradition. An important, almost religious ritual with its strict traditions, rules and observances. The secret of its goodness is in the blending and toasting of the beans, and of course, every household swears by its own particular way of brewing and serving the coffee.

This is, in fact, perfectly captured in a scene from the famous play ‘Questi Fantasmi’ (These Ghosts) written, directed and played by Eduardo De Filippo, the legendary and much loved Neapolitan playwright and actor. In this scene (and also in this scene from the movie with Sophia Loren) he describes to his neighbour across the balcony, the secret of how to make the best coffee: “….You see, on the spout I place this ‘cuppetiello’ (conical shaped paper cover). It sounds simple but it has a very important function… because the dense smoke of the first coffee - which is the heaviest and most intense - does not disperse but rather remains trapped inside, perfuming the whole of the coffee maker’s environment… another small secret is to add a spoonful of freshly grounded coffee at the bottom of the ‘caffettiera’ so that, at the moment of pouring the boiling water, this becomes already flavoured, producing a more fragrant and exquisite coffee….”

Another fascinating anecdote, my favorite, is that of the “Caffè Sospeso” (Suspended Coffee), a custom, started during the last war, of offering a gift of a cup of coffee to a stranger who cannot afford it.

The writer and philosopher, Luciano De Crescenzo explained this beautifully in his book titled ‘Caffè Sospeso’: “…..When someone is happy in Naples, they pay for two coffees – one for himself and another for someone else. This is like offering a coffee to the rest of the world. A simple gesture of love and profound humanity that has always distinguished the Neapolitan people who never forget people in need. …”

This is Naples and its soul in a nutshell.

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Paola is our in-house cook, here at the House of Talents. She is offering Italian inspired cookery classes for adults and kids.

We are asking for a £5 donation for group sessions (with a minimum of 5 people per session).

Please get in touch with Paola to sign up for one of her group classes, or to book a one-to-one session.

Email: paolacimmino3@gmail.com

Instagram: @cucina_cimmino

Paola is a member of the  House of Talents , a community of established writers, actors, artists, musicians, performers, mindfulness coaches – and a publisher, who offer creative online courses for adults and children (£5 each for group classes). Classes include creative writing, portrait painting, performing, public speaking, self-publishing, meditation, mindfulness, nutrition and how to publish your book. 10% of all payments go to  charity.

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